Because if its famous north face, the Eiger is one of the most famous and written about peaks in the world. The battle to climb this face has captivated the interest of climbers and non-climbers alike since the time of the first note worthy attempt in The Eiger is a striking peak from all sides and a worthy climb by any of its many routes, none of which are particularly easy.
See First Ascent of the Eiger for more details. Live cam of Eiger from Kleine Scheidegg: Eiger Cam These photos give a degree trip around the moutain in a counter clockwise direction starting with the classic view of the N Face from near Kleine Scheidegg. It is normally reached from Interlaken via either Grindelwald or Lauterbrunnen.
The starting points of all the routes can be reached by train from either of these towns. The routes visible from the north are shown on an excellent photograph here: Eiger routes. This photo includes all the following routes except the South Ridge. The major routes on the Eiger are:.
Route finding on the lower part of the flank can be very difficult, especially in descent if one has not gone up this way initially. Though not that technically difficult it is a big high alpine tour that can be especially serious in poor weather or conditions. There are fixed iron rods on the upper part of the route. Below are a close up of the upper West Ridge and two photos on the route:. Since the first ascent of the face in there have been numerous new routes and variations on the face including many that end on the West Ridge or NE Face and even several Sport Climbing routes low on the face Eiger NF routes.
Still, most climbers seem to be most familiar with and aspire to the original classic route. But, note that in recent years much of the snow and the ice has melted back so that late in the season the face is often almost bare.
Below are several climbing shots on classic pitches of the route. SP members Zwerggaeuer and Bernhard Sauer have climbed the face.
To see their photos all together, visit their profile pages. See also this album which includes a video by endy Eiger Also, see the album by endy of a ascent. The Lauper Route takes an elegant line more or less directly up the Northeast Face.
The Mittellegi Ridge is probably the most popular route on the Eiger. It is a fantastic steep knife edged ridge offering excellent climbing with little or no objective danger. Below are several photos taken along the Mittellegi Ridge:. The long South Ridge is the second easiest route on the Eiger. This ascent was made from the North Eigerjoch, which was reached via the Eiger Glacier. The party had reached North Eigerjoch from the south in , but did not have time to continue to the summit.
This is the famous train that tunnels through the north face of the Eiger. Exiting the train, we walk down a tunnel and rappel onto the Kallifirn glacier. A short walk across the glacier and we start our climbing up to the hut. A mixture of pitched rock climbing up to 5. The following day, we will have an alpine start and make our way up to the summit. The ridge is very exposed and narrow with good sections of steep climbing. The final section to the summit is typically on a snow fin using crampons and an ice axe.
Our route down is long and difficult, requiring concentration, and climbers need to maintain lots of energy. This is a highly recommended shortlist and we would be happy to pass on a longer reading list for those interested. These links will bounce to Amazon. This is a note to let you know what my experience was in Zermatt and with Johnathon and Hans.
I would like to say that I have done climbing numerous peaks over the last 25 years. I have used guides a number of times and have never experienced the quality of the guides Johnathon, Hans, […]. The endless daylight, and the sheer contrast of Denali towering over the rest of the state gives it an atmosphere like no other.
For the last decade, Michael Gardner and I have stared down from the upper […]. Apparently all the cool-kid alpinists are using them.
Can I bring one on my course? Alpine Ascents International leads expeditions that have become benchmarks of quality in the climbing community. We operate what we believe is the finest mountaineering school in the country. This expertise is based upon years of accumulated experience-not just from individual mountain guides, but through experience on particular mountains where details are fine-tuned over time.
Our guides are an integral part of Alpine Ascents because they understand and share our climbing principles. These individuals are dedicated to sharing their excellence with others.
Many of our guides have been with Alpine Ascents for over five years, with a handful of veterans working with us for most of their careers. The quality of our Guide Staff is the primary difference between us and our competitors. Leave No Trace principles are fundamental to our program, and we encourage all who climb and trek with us to understand proper wilderness practices.
The final section of the Mittellegi Ridge to the summit is snowier, usually requiring crampons. The descent is via the long South Ridge — see below. South Ridge : Leaving the Monchjoch Hut before dawn, we drop down onto the glacier and skirt around the base of Monch in order to reach the South Eigerjoch where the climbing begins. A narrow 1km long ridge seperates the South Eigerjoch from the North Eigerjoch — this has to be traversed in both directions. Snowy to start, the ridge becomes mixed then rocky, with a final abseil off the end.
Finally the South Ridge of the Eiger proper leads up to the summit — this can be either on rock, snow or mixed ground depending on conditions. Either we make a morning ascent of the Monch before returning to Chamonix, or or use Friday for a final attempt at the Eiger.
We have the Monchjoch Hut booked for both Wednesday and Thursday nights in order to allow for this. Overnight in Chamonix. We base ourselves for the week in the famous French resort of Chamonix, in the shadow of Mont Blanc. Chamonix is one of the most famous Alpine centres in the world, with an unparalleled range of quality climbing across all grades and styles, and much of it with convenient cablecar access. The most common way to reach Chamonix is fly to Geneva, then take a shared taxi transfer to the Chamonix valley — transfers will drop off at the destination of your choice, but must be booked in advance.
For flights and other travel options, including train, coach and driving, visit our Travel Planning page. To enjoy this trip you should be comfortable operating at Fitness Level 3, and Tech Level 3 as appropriate for the style of climbing on this trip ie Alpine, rock climbing or ice climbing.
At this level you are happy doing a hour hillwalk, 50 mile cycle or hr mountain bike ride without being totally exhausted. Tech Level 3 Intermediate climber. To view all climbing Technical and Fitness Levels, and for advice on trip preparation and training, please visit our training advice page.
Above all, alpine climbing kit needs to do the job, but be as light as possible. Its best to have your own boots and break them in well before the start of the trip — see advice below. Recommendations and Advice Visit the Knowledge Base section of our website or our blog for equipment advice. Purchasing Equipment Backcountry UK in Otley offer an excellent walking boot fitting service and general equipment advice.
Hiring Equipment Please see our Equipment Hire page for more details.
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